MYH8for405's Xanga

Irresponsible

Tue, 22 Jul 2008 21:41:56 GMT

Just came back from San Diego for a mandatory court appearance (arraignment) and got hit with a $1000 fine for speeding (100+). Judge was straightforward enough to recommend that I fight it. So on the 15th of next month I'll be back down in SD once again to plead my case in court.

On the flip side, I just spent a huge wad of cash on a Stage 3 turbo kit.

Overdue Update

Thu, 10 Jul 2008 23:24:56 GMT

A lot of time has passed since my last entry and my car's been through quite a lot during that same timespan. Here's a quick rundown of what's been going on.

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APR Fuel Pump

Wow. That's the thought that crossed my mind during the initial run after installing the APR Fuel Pump. The engine absolutely just pulls and pulls. Boost readings stayed at a steady 20-23psi as the RPM and engine speed ramped up. Absolutely amazing. The torque band is amazing, pulling hard after 3000 RPM and not dropping off until close to 6. Boost drops a lot after the mid 5's but the engine is still climbing as the pump continues to send fuel to the engine.

This is going to help a ton when exiting corners, as I can keep the RPMs high and still make full boost. Now finally I can give bigger cars a run for their money -- I'll have plenty of power to make past 100mph. I can't wait to have some dyno graphs to analyze.

**Update: Just recently reflashed with an updated StageII software that supposedly extracts 14hp more out of the fuel pump. No documentation from APR to confirm; as always I'd like to see some data to back the claims. Car doesn't really feel that much different..

VF-Engineering Mounts

From the second I sat in my car after installing the mounts, my car felt more solid. There's definitely more vibration through the frame of the car but it's mellow and rather soothing. Gripping the steering wheel yields the same sensation.

Revving the engine no longer causes the engine to turn. Despite being an inline-setup, my engine would move a lot under heavy torque loads. The first time I dyno'd my car it was plain embarassing how much turn it was giving. Now the engine doesn't even move anymore. Engine mount and torque arm insert did a great job of reinforcing the drivetrain and the pendulum mount has done a great job of holding the exhaust in place. From head to toe, the car's drivetrain is just that much more solid. Thumbs up to polyurethane construction.

**Update: Speaking of polyurethane suspension parts, I upgraded the exhaust bushing hanger from rubber to a polyurethane, a swap that has helped eliminate a lot of vertical and horizontal movement. There's still some wiggle left but there's little I can do when only one hanger arm is holding the exhaust to the rear of the car. I'll need do get a muffler shop reinforce if I want to eliminate it completely.

Neuspeed P-Flo + CAI Extension

Nothing hurts a turbo's performance more than heat soak. Simply stated, hot air is less dense than cold air. With a turbo spooling hotter air, less power can be made from the engine. The stock intake does a great job of boxing out hot air but it sits much too close to the engine bay for my liking. Instead of going RAM air, I decided to pipe in cooler air coming from the bottom of the engine bay, just behind the driverside fog housing. This allows me to pull in cooler air, where the filter element is situated as far from the engine and turbo as possible.

With the CAI intake I've noticed driving temperatures within 5-10 degrees of outside temperature, 3-5 at higher speeds. These are readings coming from my MAS sensor and being directly read from my OBD II port. These reflect the same readings that the car's ECU sees so it's pretty darn accurate. As the weather gets warmer, there may be a need to get an intercooler but I'm planning to get that done along with my next mod project.

Intakes don't do much for my turbo setup in terms of increased power, but the turbo spools a lot faster now and the engine opens up in the higher RPMs. I'm literally addicted to the sound of my engine past 4k RPM. And the sound of the intake surging when I let off the throttle makes me giggle like an adolescent boy racer. It's not a BOV but it sounds menacing nonetheless.

Debadged

This one is simple -- it adds 100000 hp after removing the A3 and 2.0T badges on my truck hatch. LOL. Ok so I'm joking but what it does do is tidy up my rear. I'll be replacing it with something sooner or later but wanted to go with the shaved look for now.

Stoptech BBK - 328mm x 28mm + Axxis Brake Pads

The big kahuna, the single most expensive mod to date: $1800 brake upgrade from Stoptech. A big step up from the 312mm rotors, I'm running Axxis performance brake pads with my Stoptech setup.

Wow x2. I loved the fuel pump upgrade and I'm just as giddy about this BBK mod. My car absolutely bites when I step on the brakes. The car literally feels lighter. Not only is the rotor and caliper larger but ligther than my stock setup, having gone to an aluminum setup. Cross-drilled rotors help to cool the brakes when I heavy up on the brake pedal and makes tossing the car around that much more fun.

I finally have braking power that matches my get-up power. This will allow me to brake later than before and much quicker. With the way the stock setup was fading after a hard canyon run, this mod was a no-brainer. Big thanks to Wheel Power down in Huntington Beach for setting me up.

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That's about it in terms of any recent mods. I've got a bumper to repaint (replace even?) and maybe drop a pretty dollar on a full body kit -- choosing between S3 conversion, Oettinger, Vortex -- and possibly a big-turbo upgrade in the works. I want to spend some time enjoying my setup right now and realizing it's current potential.

I'll see ya'll on the streets. Pictures and/or videos to follow.

More Wins for Audi/VW

Thu, 08 May 2008 00:19:02 GMT

You know what makes me happy? Finding out that Audi/VW's 2.0L TFSI engine has won it's third straight International Engine of the Year award for the 1.8-2.0L class. It beat out the new Evo X engine as well as the aging 4-bangers in the Civic Type R and S2K.

Results

	points
1. Volkswagen/Audi 2-litre Turbo FSI (A3, A4 Cabrio, A6, TT, Eos, Jetta, Golf GTi, Škoda Octavia, Seat Altea, Leon)	256

2. BMW Diesel 2-litre Twin Turbo (123d)	254

3. Subaru Diesel 2-litre flat four Turbo (Outback)	196

4. Mitsubishi 2-litre four-cylinder Turbo (Evo X)	105

5. Honda 2-litre four-cylinder i-VTEC (Civic Type R)	97

6. Honda 2-litre four-cylinder (S2000 (Europe/Asia))	67

The big winner was BMW with their 3.0L Twin Turbo found in the 335 and 135.

Edmunds's Insideline incorrectly claimed the BMW dominated the competition, trumping the Porsche 3.6L found in the 911 Turbo (link). Well of course it did, because that 911 Turbo engine wasn't even nominated in the top 8 for Engine of the Year (see below). But look at how well the 2.0 TFSI engine did, as well as it's brethren the 1.4 TSI:

Results

	points
1. BMW 3-litre Twin Turbo (135, 335, X6)	380

2. Volkswagen 1.4-litre TSI Twincharger (VW Golf, Touran, Tiguan, Jetta)	287

3. Volkswagen/Audi 2-litre 4-cylinder Turbo FSI (A3, A4 Cabrio, A6, TT, Eos, Jetta, Skoda Octavia, Seat Altea, León, Golf GTi)	270

4. BMW 4-litre V8 (M3)	241

5. BMW 5-litre V10 (M5, M6)	151

6. BMW-PSA 1.6-litre Turbo (MINI Cooper S, Clubman, Peugeot 207, 308)	149

7. Subaru 2.5-litre flat four Turbo (Forester, Impreza, Outback, Legacy)	78

8. Toyota 1-litre 3-cylinder (Aygo,Yaris/Echo/Vitz, Citroën C1, Peugeot 107, Subaru Justy)	69

Isn't that amazing that VW's 2.0 and 1.4 litre engines beat the new M3 V8 and the M5 V10?? Truth in engineering, I'd like to say.

You can view all the results straight from the source: http://www.ukipme.com/engineoftheyear/categories.html

Editor??

Sun, 13 Apr 2008 01:33:37 GMT

MYH8 an editor? It very well might just happen.

I've been assigned to begin providing editorial content for CarDevotion's upcoming blog features. I'll be looking forward to covering industry events and content across a wide vertical -- practically anything automotive is at my discrection.

First featured article will be about how JDM sucks and DTM rules. Ok, ok I kid. On a serious note, I'll be looking out for gearheads alike who would like to contribute content. I can perhaps work out some freebies on the backend but please keep in mind there are no monetary incentives (for now). But as for free events passes and the all-too-cool press passes, that is definitely something I can pass along. HIN anyone? Better yet, how about car show debuts and the coveted annual SEMA convention.

Feel free to leave a comment or private message me and I'll personally review all inquiries. Don't worry about experience or relative car knowledge -- whether you're an ASE certified technician or weekend car star, or just your average Joe who frequents Jiffy Lube, all that I ask is for some sample entries to confirm that.. well... you have a grasp of the English language. And you have to know how to put air in your tires... or top off your windshield washer fluid.

Oh, and if you can completely rebuild a VW 2.0T FSI engine that'd be a major plus.

Waiting

Sun, 13 Apr 2008 01:07:52 GMT

Arguably one of the most difficult aspects of being a car enthusiast is waiting. Whether it's waiting for new model offerings or order countdowns, time is the car junkie's worst enemy. Acceleration times, sitting at the dealer during an scheduled service, it all amounts to millions of gearheads tapping their shoes while shuffling through pages of the local newspaper. Nothing helps speed up the time. Well almost nothing but let's stay on the subject while I still can.

Anyhow, why would I be the expert on waiting? Because that's exactly what I'm currently doing. I've got a fuel pump that's been eluding me for the past month or so, and adding insult to injury I can't even drive my car to help pass the time. Why? Because one of the rear sway bar brackets cracked clean off leaving me with a metal-grinding rear suspension.

I guess I can always go in and let it run with just one bracket, but it's better safe than sorry so I've decided to wait until Monday/Tuesday when the part arrives. So why is this so bad you ask? Because it just had to happen on a Thursday, just days before the return of welcomed warmer weather here in LA (~80 degrees). Plans to enjoy the weather down in San Diego were immediately crushed the moment I heard the bracket shatter driving out of a McDonald's parking lot. Lesson learned: don't over torque your bolts, people.

Now that I think of it, I haven't been without a ride since my high school years. Not only do I have to bum rides off of people, it forces me to realize how lazy I've become in terms of getting from point A to point B. Solution? To use the best motor design of all time -- my own set of legs. Now if I could only figure out how to implement some force induction.

More Modding

Thu, 13 Mar 2008 20:43:10 GMT

I can't shake the mod bug. For the past few months I've been running Stage 2 APR turboback exhaust (TBE) but need to followup with a few more mods in order to harness full power (and potential).

APR Fuel Pump

First and foremort I need an upgraded fuel pump. My stock fuel pump cannot keep up with the fuel demands from the Stage 2 ECU mapping. It became quickly apparent that an additional volume of high-pressure fuel was needed to make horsepower, especially in the midrange (3000-5000rpm) of the powerband. I've experience cut-offs a couple of times already and I'll tell you that limp mode is no fun at all. It will make little or no boost at all and it require me to lower my speed to around 35-40mph. More often than not, require me to stop and restart the engine.

APR Fuel Pump

Volume of fuel delivery increases by 40% and can handle 350+ hp modifications. Supposedly with another ECU map upgrade, an extra 25hp and 35lb-ft. will be pushed out from the engine. Additional details here.

Engine/Transmission Mounts

With as much torque as I'm making (300+ lb-ft.), the engine undergoes a lot of movement when under hard acceleration and throttle. This extra engine movement needs to be controlled with stiffer engine and transmission mounts. That's where VF Engineering's Side Mount, Pendulum Mount, and Tranny Mount come in.

VF Engineering Transmission Mount

VF Engineering Side Mount

VF Engineering Pendulum Mount

Replacing the softer factory mount, VF uses high durometer polyurethane bushings, stronger billet aluminum construction, and high tensile hardware to provide twice the strength of the factory mounts (billet is twice as strong as the stock's casted aluminum). Mount upgrades will result in more vibration through steering, but also result in a more responsive tranmission and chassis. Less slop!

Additional detail here.

Forge Vacuum Valve

The OEM electro-controlled bypass valve's diaphragm is susceptible to splitting under high tempertures and increased boost presurre from chipped 2.0T engines. Although my '07 A3 has the upgraded verision B OEM valve, it's still not as strong as the Forge Vac Valve. With peak boost at 23psi, I need an upgrade valve or else risk losing boost altogether with a torn valve. Additional detail here.

Forge Vacuum Operated Valve

Busted OEM Bypass Valve

Neuspeed P-Flo Cold-Air Intake

The stock intake is good at providing sufficient air at lower RPMs, but with the upgraded fuel pump and turboback, an upgraded intake is necessary to push more power at higher RPMs. That's where Neuspeed's P-Flo intake comes in. With the cold-air extension driving the filter head down towards the bottom of the engine bay, throttle response is increased, allowing the turbo to spool much faster.

Neuspeed P-Flo Intake

Neuspeed Cold Air Extension Kit

The extension kit places the filter element in the front driver's side inner fender compartment. If it rains heavily, I would need to cap the extension kit and relocate the filter to it's original location up top. Additionally, the Neuspeed filter included in the kit is an integral velocity stack that helps increase air flow. More details here.

Hopefully all the ordered items come in by mid-week next week so I can install and head up to the canyons for some weekend benchmarking.

So how much is all this going to cost me? Here's the breakdown:

APR High Flow Fuel Pump -- $650
Forge Vacuum Valve -- $225
VF Mounts (Side, Pendulum, Transmission) -- $567 @ $189 each
Neuspeed P-Flo Intake -- $198
Neuspeed Cold Air Extension Kit -- $149
Subtotal: $1789
Install: $120 (Forge Valve) + $80 (Neuspeed Intake) + $150 (APR Fuel Pump) + $350 (VF Mounts) = $700
Total: $2489

Yup. Depressing isn't it? Especially considering most of the mods above are required since I went Stage 2. I've talked to my shop techs about going Stage 3 (bigger turbo, upgraded clutch packs) but that's an additional $10 grand that I'm not willing to part with.

I'll see how much I get back from my tax return and decent on whether or not I'll upgrade to a big-brake kit (Brembo vs. Stoptech). Going fast means nothing if I can't stop fast.

NA Still the Best (?)

Thu, 13 Mar 2008 20:13:54 GMT

My chipped 2.0T engine gets 300+ lb-ft. of torque at around 3500-3750 rpm, which is comparable to a good NA engine. I mention this because just I took my buddy's 330i (stock) for a spin today and was reminded just how great good ol' linear powered NA engines are.

It wasn't just the fact that BMW's make great engines. The refined neutral steering of a BMW is a much more organic experience and it's not difficult to understand what the hoopla is all about with BMW's driving dynamics. Although my car is producing more power than the 330i, FWD is what it is and I would require more extensive tuning to duplicate the same feel in a RWD BMW.

But I still wouldn't buy a BMW. Ever. Just too flashy and "look at me" persona than what I can handle. I want something more subtle. Monica Bellucci vs. Jessica Alba. Hermes vs. Louis Vutton. Audi vs. BMW.

Now aside from all the turbo powered sporty cars we see on the rode, naturally aspirated automobiles -- in my opinion -- will remain the crème de la crème of motorsports. With the recent regulations being passed by Congress to impose stricter emissions/efficiency regulations, we may no longer see the big HP cars that we have the past decade. But there's nothing that capitol hill can do to deny the purists -- high-performance NA engines will likely become the holy grail for enthusiasts.

I know it's consistently won over this critic.

D'oh -- A3 2.0T quattro coming..

Mon, 03 Mar 2008 19:17:53 GMT

Great -- it will be 2 years since I got my A3 that a quattro version comes out Q4 2008. Confirmed by Johan de Nysschen, Executive Vice President, Audi of America, the 2.0T quattro A3 will be equipped with a new face, some minor aesthetic changes, and DSG.

Although once I get my Quaife LSD installed, I still wouldn't be able to beat a quattro Stg 2 A3 in the canyons. Drag it's going to be close, considering the weight of AWD. I guess when I put it into perspective, a $1200 LSD for my car is justifiable considering the markup for a quattro over a FWD version straight off the lot.

GT-R vs. GT3 vs. M3

Mon, 25 Feb 2008 23:32:53 GMT

Nissan fanboys rejoice!

Part 1

Part 2

Thursday, January 31, 2008

Thu, 31 Jan 2008 19:04:51 GMT

Top Four Tips For Driving Like A Pro
Posted Yesterday 01:05 PM by Arthur St. Antoine (Motor Trend blogger)

What I'm about to share I've learned racing formula cars and attending more than a dozen professional driving/racing schools in the U.S. and Europe. As I noted in my column in the November Motor Trend, I highly recommend that you find a way to enroll in one of these institutes of higher velocity yourself. A few days on the skid pad and race track will pay a lifetime of driving dividends. Admittedly, though, high-performance driving and racing schools are expensive. Until your bank account shows you the green light, therefore, I'm giving you a head start right here, right now. Free.

1. Be smooth. Your car's transmission, its tires, its chassis -- they don't like abrupt inputs. Slamming on the gas throws the car's weight to the rear, unsettling the front tires (hey, you need those to steer). Diving on the brakes hurls the car's weight forward (now your poor front tires are overloaded trying to brake hard and steer, and the suddenly light rear tires just might decide to swing the tail around on you). Driving well is all about weight management, controlling the ever-shifting mass of the car so the tires are never overloaded. That means rolling the steering wheel gracefully into turns, squeezing on the gas and brakes, moving the transmission lever (if you have a manual) as if the shift knob were an egg. I was lucky enough to ride once with three-time world champion Sir Jackie Stewart in an original Ford GT40. The guy made that clattering old race car move as if it were swimming in Wesson Oil. Even though we were blazing around Laguna Seca, I wasn't being tossed around inside the cockpit. Instead, I was gently pushed from side to side, eased forward and back, as the Maestro conducted a ballet at the wheel. The sensation had much more in common with riding in an expertly driven limousine -- don't spill our champagne, Jeeves -- than with the typical Hollywood portrayal of "expert" driving. Trust me on this: Smoothness at the wheel is the single biggest indicator of driving skill. (Conversely, driving like Rambo is a dead giveaway that you're a wanker.)

2. Turn later. "All God's children turn in early," a racing instructor once told me. And he was right. Watch the car ahead of you on a twisty road sometime. See how he crosses the yellow line when turning left? That's turning too soon. Even when driving briskly, you should always be able to corner within your own lane. Same thing happens when racing students first hit a track. "Why, that turn is coming up so fast and the road is running out so I'd better steer now!" And what happens? They clip the inside of the corner too soon and the resulting arc carries them right off the outside of the turn. Turning later takes practice, but it's key to balancing your car on the road and maximizing speed on a track. In effect, you're slowing down a little earlier, letting the car roll a little father into the turn, smoothly arcing the wheel so the tires can bite and provide you with maximum grip. Most important: Turning later means you can get on the gas earlier. If you turn early, you'll have to back off the throttle to keep the car from arcing off the road. Turn later, and your balanced machine will be ready to glide through the apex and charge toward the exit under power. Given that accelerating is the hardest thing for a car to do, the more time your right foot can be on the gas, the quicker you'll be around the track.

3. Look ahead. Nope, not at the car in front of you. No, not at the car in front of him, either. I want you looking as far down the road as you can. On a mountain road, you're not looking at the corner you're in, you're looking for the next one. On the highway, your eyes are scanning the horizon, often a half-mile or more down the road. On the track, you're always looking where you want to go. Each of us is equipped with an Early Warning System, but too often we don't use it. Get your eyes up, and suddenly you've got advance info. You know what the next corner looks like before you fly into it. You can see that crash ahead before the driver in front of you pounces on his brakes. On the track, your hands and feet will instinctively follow your eyes; look where you want to go, and your car will go there. (Why do so many drivers crash into the only tree around for miles? Because they're looking right at the thing they don't want to hit.) Looking ahead takes practice, but you'll be amazed at how well it works –- and at how much close-up information you're still picking up simply from peripheral vision. Suddenly, you're not playing connect the dots with individual lane stripes; you're flowing past them, aiming at that spot way in the distance. You have more time to react; you can plan your next move, keeping your car in that critical balance. You're smoother, in better control, a vastly improved driver. Try it.

4. Brake like you're taking a crap. Apologies if I offend, but this lesson from another racing instructor (yes, he was French) explains proper braking more effectively than any other. Remember Tip #1, Be smooth? In braking it's especially critical. Brakes are very powerful and can easily upset a car's balance -- even if you have ABS. So, in the words of my teacher: "Braking well is like taking a big poop. First you squeeze, then you push very very hard, and then you gently taaaaper off at the end." There. Now you know everything there is to know about how Lewis Hamilton dives so deep into corners. The best part: You can even practice while reading the new Motor Trend.